Alison Edwards - Days 27-31 Wonderland RV Park, Capitol Reef NP, UT

May 1-May 5

Days 27-31

We headed out Saturday morning for Capitol Reef across 117 miles of ‘The Journey Through Time’ Scenic 12 Byway, All American Road. What an amazing stretch of highway. We had fantastic scenery as we crossed the Red Canyon and Grand Staircase Escalante Monument, and especially when we climbed the steep grades across the section called ‘Hogback’ which was exceptionally memorable (actually terrifying) with its twists and turns and steep drop offs with no guard rails.

About an hour into our drive, we stopped in Escalante to explore the Petrified Forest State Park. This park offered a short hike to see ancient colorful petrified wood, regional plants, volcanic rock and amazing vistas of the Dixie National forest, Escalante Canyons and town of Escalante below. The hike was fun too because our little furry friend could tag along. He hasn’t had much hiking time since the National Parks don’t allow dogs. What a fun little stop on the All American Road!

After taking in the richly varied scenery of America’s 2nd most beautiful highway, we arrived at Wonderland RV Park, just outside Capitol Reef National Park, in the early afternoon. After a quick setup and some lunch we headed out to check out the park by truck as we did in Bryce. Neither of us knew what to expect from the least visited of the National Parks. As we drove route 24, we quickly realized this was a very different and unique place with a personality all its own. The variety of vibrant colors spilled across the vast landscape. The long narrow stretch of park is an incredible masterpiece!

The park was formed by what is known in geology as a Waterpocket Fold, a wrinkle in the Earth’s crust that extends nearly 100 miles all the way to Lake Powell. To be honest we don’t quite understand it all, but what was left behind is incredible to witness and explore. The area was inhabited by Native Americans who left their cultural carvings on the rock walls between 300-1300 AD. Then in the 1800s, Mormon pioneers established the settlement of Fruita and managed to sustain an agricultural lifestyle for decades with tending to a variety of fruit orchards. The NP Service has preserved some of the original buildings, orchards, irrigation systems and history of these pioneers.

As we got to the end of the 11 mile Scenic Drive that traversed the park, we ran out of paved road. Since there was no sign telling us to stop we continued driving the dirt back road as the Canyon walls towered above us. We got to know the cliffs up close and personnel as we twisted further back into the park. After about 2 miles of narrowing dirt road, we came to a backcountry section of the park called Capitol Gorge. From here, we read that there were a couple of interesting hikes, so we didn’t waste the opportunity. We set out to hike the narrow trail, with the Canyon walls towering above, to find the petroglyphs of the ancient tribes and the list of the pioneers who carved their names on the canyon walls, now known as the Pioneer Register. As we looked at the petroglyphs left by ancient people and the names of pioneers on the canyon walls we couldn’t help but think about who else may have traveled through here over thousands of years. On the drive back out of the park, the late afternoon sun cast a warm glow on the incredible canyon walls, spires, red rocks and barren desert floor. We couldn’t wait to come back in the morning to explore more of this other-worldly gem.

Sunday morning we were up early and headed out to hike the 3.5 mile round-trip to Cassidy Arch in the Grand Wash Canyon. The stone arch was named for the famed outlaw, who was believed to have occasionally hid out in the Grand Wash. The trail offered spectacular views as it climbed steeply from the floor of the Grand Wash to the high cliffs overlooking the park. The views and arch were stunning. After spending some time up top, we returned to the canyon floor and picked up the Grand Wash Trail to head out to an area called ‘The Narrows’. Since we hiked the narrows in Zion we had to experience the narrows here at Capitol Reef. This part of the hike was a little less spectacular then we hoped, so we made our way back to the trail head and headed back to the campground to relax and enjoy a late lunch. That evening, to pay proper tribute to the famed outlaw, we watched the movie Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid on Hulu to see if we recognized any of the places we just explored. A quick Google search revealed that a lot of the movie was actually filmed a Zion. Who knew?

The last two days at Capitol Reef were filled with more hikes and exploring some of the nearby towns. We hiked Hickman’s Natural Bridge trail to see the 133 foot towering rock arch and to have some fun exploring below it. We also hiked the Chimney Rock loop trail up to Chimney tower to take in the views of the Castle formation, Fruita and the snowcapped Henry Mountains of in the distance. We headed back down through the fallen boulders from the Wingate cliffs above and finished with a hike through Chimney Rock Canyon. The geology of this area is truly incredible.

Why this is the least visited park of the 5 is a bit of a mystery. Capitol Reef is every bit as spectacular as the other two we’ve explored. All three have offered very different and unique experiences. We’ve absolutely enjoyed each of them for very different reasons. Capitol Reef provided a more relaxed and inviting personal experience with lots more backcountry discoveries to be had. There were smaller crowds and more opportunity to get off the beaten path to explore on our own without pressure. It is a place we would strongly recommend you see if you get the chance. Next stop is Moab and our last two National Parks to complete the ‘Mighty 5’; Arches and Canyonlands. We also plan to do a little mountain biking out there since Moab is known as the mountain bike mecca. We can’t wait!

Destination-Wonderland RV Park, Torrey, UT, Capitol Reef NP

We headed out of Bryce to Capitol Reef on the 2nd ranked most beautiful 124 mile scenic highway in the World.

Climbing the Table Cliff Plateau out of Kodachrome basin at 7,600 ft towards Escalante.

We stopped off at the Escalante Petrified Forest State Park.

Wide Hollow Reservoir with Big Bruce and Camp Escape down below.

A view of the Escalante Mtns in the Dixie National Forest

The boys climbing the trail to the petrified forest.

The most interesting petrified wood specimen in the park. You can still see the preserved rings.

A view of the Mormon town of Escalante, pop. 800 settled in 1876.

Native American's called this area 'the land of sleeping rainbows'.

Back on Scenic Byway 12 heading up to Boulder. The geography and geology seemingly changes around every twist and turn.

A view of the Grand Staircase Escalante to the south.

A view of the Grand Staircase Escalante to the North.

This truly is a 'Journey through time' All American Road.

The 'Hog's Back' hairpin curves and winding section where the road runs along a very steep ridge and drops off drastically into deep canyons below, on both sides.

Surviving Hog Back's twisty death defying curves and excited to come down into Boulder. (If only for a moment before we climb again!)

We reached the summit at 9600 ft at the top of Boulder mtn, the highest forested plateau in North America with spectacular views of Capital Reef NP, the Henry snowcapped mnts and believe it or not, Navajo Mnt (100 miles away) past Lake Powell on the far upper left side.

The final 11 miles and at times 10% grade down into Torrey, UT elevation 68oo. This has been quite a ride!

Wonderland RV Park, Torrey, UT

Our little slice of paradise.

Our view that comes along with the little slice of paradise. Thousand Lake Mnts in the background.

Historic Fruita village is at the start of the scenic drive through Capitol Reef NP.

18 miles of amazingness!

Twin Rocks

Panoramic Overlook of the Waterpocket Fold. A geologic wrinkle on earth! This fold extends for over 100 miles.

Wow!

You can see the distinct exposed layers formed millions of years ago.

2.5 mile off-road drive down to the Capitol Gorge Trailhead at the end of the park.

We are not sure if this is an authentic petroglyph.

Capitol Gorge 'Narrows' trail to Pioneer Register

Pioneer Register from the late 1800s.

Entirely different rock formations down in the gorge.

Rich's self-proclaimed throne. He looks like an angry King.

The late evening light on our drive out of the park cast incredible colors on the canyon walls.

Almost a 1000 ft of elevation gain in 1.5 miles. That's steep!

Impressive views!

Grand Wash Canyon below

Road below into the Grand Wash trailhead.

A view of 'Butch' Cassidy's Arch

Cassidy's Arch. Famed outlaw Butch Cassidy is said to have hidden out nearby.

It took a lot of courage to walk out there!

Nature has a beautiful way of landscaping.

These rock formations are incredible.

Our Monday morning hike up to Hickman Natural Bridge.

The black boulders are remnants of Volcanic eruptions 50 million years ago.

Beautiful views on the trail to Hickmans Bridge.

We found it! Hickman Natural Bridge. Time to explore.

A huge 133 foot Natural Bridge

Look who's standing on the split rocks down in the right corner!

Time for a little fun.

Looking up!

An arch with a morning sunlit view.

Spectacular view of the Freemont River, Historic Fruita, and the mouth of the Cohab Canyon

The iconic 6,120 tall Capitol Dome. The shape reminded early settlers of the US Capitol building, and lent the park it's name.

What a fun hike!

We stopped at the Petroglyph Panel before heading to Historic Fruita.

Learning about the ancestors of the Hopi and Pueblo people

Petroglyphs carved from 600-1300 CE

These are some of the most intricately carved images in the park

Fruita Mormon School House from 1896-1941.

The one room school house served as the community meeting house and church as well.

So much history through this window. I can just imagine all the amazing stories these walls could tell.

A little window into history.

In Historic Fruita there are 2 of the most amazing Cottonwood trees I've ever seen. This panel tells the story.

The Silent Sentinel Mail Tree thriving for almost 200 years.

The picnic table gives a little perspective on the incredible size of this Cottonwood.

Our final hike at Capitol Reef NP.

Beautiful view of Chimney Rock and the distant Henry Mnts.

A view looking North back towards Torrey, UT. Big Bruce is down below.

A view South looking down at Fruita and The Castle Formation in the midground to the left.

The exposed formations of Capitol Reef start where the north rim of the Grand Canyon ends.

The gray-blue layers were deposited as volcanic ash 225 million years ago. The brick-red layers have ripples and mud crack remains from a time when rivers flowed to desert seas 245 million years ago.

'The Castle' with its beautifully incredible geologic layered formations.

An excellent placard that explains the layered landscape.

Wrapping up our visit with a trip to the Chuckwagon General Store and the Trading Post.

Three National Parks explored and two more to go! Here we come Arches and Canyonland.

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